Denmark and Sweden 2008 When I lived in Denmark in the early 70’s petrol was scarce – (so what’s new!) –   we couldn’t travel around very far. So, now that we are retired with time on our side, even with petrol expensive rather than scarce, I was keen to take advantage of the DFDS offer for “caravans go free”, and to go even further across Denmark to Sweden.Advice from members of the forum www.touringandtenting.co.uk who had already made this journey was encouraging, even though costs to use the toll bridges were eye watering. 

Originally I planned to travel across to Stockholm, but this was too ambitious as we were only away for two weeks. I planned our journey around campsites that took Camping Cheques (CCs), which turned out to be quite a bonus, as during our stay some of the sites changed their rates from low to high season, but still took CCs. Onboard the DFDS ferry we indulged ourselves with a Commodore Cabin, and because it was an 18 hour crossing this proved to be money well spent. The extra £100 per person included use of the Commodore Lounge on Deck10, with drinks (tea/coffee/beer/whisky/gin) nibbles and a cheese board with fruit. Breakfast, also included in the price, could be taken in the Lounge or in the Restaurant on Deck 8.  After recovering from the shock of having to reverse off the ferry, we made good time to our first night in Denmark, at Hasmark Strand Ferriepark in the area of Otterup. We crossed the first (toll free) bridge over the Lille Belt, which connects Jylland to Fyn. The site was very busy as it was a public holiday; pitches were small and the caravan mover certainly came in handy.  Our next journey included both the toll bridge across the Storebaelt, (above) joining Fyn to Sjaelland, DK 360, (£36), and the bridge that crosses the Oresund, which joins Denmark and Sweden, which cost SWK 650, (£65). The 8.5k Oresund Bridge was similar to that across the Thames at Dartford, but without the traffic jams! 

The three bridges are of the same design, so aesthetically I was very disappointed that they had no individual character. Now we had made it into Sweden! 
We stayed three nights at Kawan Village FirstCamp Molle on the south west coast. Reception staff were extremely helpful, and as with everywhere we stayed, they spoken perfect English. The campsite is situated at the foot of the Kullaberg nature reserve, surrounded by the Kattegatt and Oresund. The Kullaberg peninsular offers many sporting activities; golf, scuba diving, climbing, fishing, walking, cycling and swimming. A brisk 1.5k walk to Molle and you are rewarded with a pretty postcard style harbour with one or two small fish restaurants which were busy with people making the best of the late May sunshine. We visited the nearby small town of , and drank coffee and beer at the harbour.

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 Originally we were going to move on to Jonkoping, but time and a change in the weather was against us, so instead of going inland, we headed north along the coast for 77 miles for a three-day stay at Skrea Camping just fifteen minutes walk from the medieval town of Falkenberg, where falcons were once used for hunting.We had a pitch near the beach which was a great mistake! A strong westerly wind nearly turned our sun canopy into a spinnaker and we had to anchor it to the car to prevent lift-off! After the wind came the hail, which combined with the high winds looked like snow on the sides of the awnings. In Falkenberg there is an unusual Fotomuseum, in the home of the town’s first purpose-built 1907 cinema. There are over 1000 cameras and a remarkable collection of cinematic paraphernalia, including some superb local peasant portraits taken in 1898. There are also free tours available twice weekly in July and August at the Carlsberg Sverige brewery where Sweden’s most popular beer, Falcon, has been brewed since 1896. Leaving the caravan at Falkenberg, we drove 98 miles to Jonkoping so that we could carry out a campsite inspection (our other day job) for Alan Rogers Campsite Guides. This site, Jonkoping Swecamp Villa Bjorkhagen, is set alongside the beautiful Lake Vattern, and has service pitches including 40 with satellite connection.  Jonkoping is one of the oldest medieval trading centres in the country having won its town charter in 1284, but today it is famous for being the home of the matchstick.  The town’s pier is home to a small string of waterside restaurants and bars. At then end of August, the town hosts a five-day film festival. It is neither pure art-house nor mainstream Hollywood, focusing on films from the rest of Scandinavia and across Europe. Jonkoping’s restored historical centre is the most interesting part of town to explore. At the heart is the Radiomuséet dedicated to the memory of Erik Karlson  from nearby Huskvarna, who built his first radio at the age of 14. He later opened one of Sweden’s first radio stores just three months after the national broadcaster, Sverige Radio, had taken to the air. The museum contains seemingly every type of radio, from early crystal sets to mobile phones.The town’s trendiest nightclub, Millenium, is situated in a former match factory near the Radiomuséet. Before leaving Sweden we spent a few more nights back at Kawan Village FirstCamp Molle, where we walked to the beach and sat watching beautiful sunsets. Road conditions in both Denmark and Sweden was similar to the UK but with less traffic, with the added bonus of good rest areas as in France.

     To begin journey home, we left Sweden on the Scandlines ferry, the 20 minute journey across the Oresund Strait from Helsingborg to Helsingor. (Car, caravan and two people cost 73.50 Danish Krone for the single journey) The Danish town of Helsingor, whose castle - Hamlet’s celebrated Elsinore (Kronoborg castle) is clearly visible just 4km., across the Strait. After centuries of conflict with the Danes, who tore down much of the town, Helsingborg was re-claimed by the Swedes in 1710. With the onset of industrialisation in the 1850’s, Helsingborg began to experience new found prosperity in shipping. There is much to see around the harbour, which has been extensively developed, as well as a variety of stylish bars and restaurants along the warren of cobble streets.We stayed one night at a quiet campsite, almost on the beach at Bjerge Sydstrand Camping, (DK-4480) Store Fuglede. The last two nights before leaving Denmark we stayed at Ǻdalens Camping, just km. from Esbjerg, and 500 metres to the beach. As usual, all the Scandinavian facilities are first class. Ǻdalens Camping even had a large shower room to wash campers’ pooches!!The next morning I finally got to re-visit Esbjerg, and unlike many places I have returned to, almost nothing seemed to have changed since the 1970s.  Esbjerg, the fifth largest city in Denmark, is situated on the West Coast of Jutland in the middle of Denmark's loveliest holiday area. The town is centred around the harbour and shopping area (Skolegade, Kongensgade), and as the town area is rather small, it is possible to get most places by walking. Overseeing the bustling central square, where most visitors congregate to shop along adjacent walking streets or to enjoy the relaxing café atmospheres, stands the equestrian statue of Christian IX – king of Denmark when Esbjerg was founded in 1868. On one corner of the square lies the former courthouse and county jail, which now houses the Tourist Office. The city of Esbjerg is a large transport hub for both rail and road traffic, with a number of museums, theatres (staging opera, ballet and drama), and several libraries. The harbour is the cradle of the city, Esbjerg's gateway to the west and is the base of the Danish offshore oil and gas industry. The newest landmark at the harbour, impossible to miss because it is so big, attracts a lot of attention. Called "Esbjerg's new giants”, they are four chalky white figures, the late Svend Wiig Hansen's enormous sculpture, "Man Meets the Sea," These are located at Saeding Strand, on a big area of the shore opposite the fishing and maritime museum. The four 79m high concrete figures are identical, sitting upright, like Greek columns gazing out across the mysterious sea.   
Close to Esbjerg you will find vast expanses of beaches, amusement parks and medieval towns, including Denmark's oldest town, Ribe which is situated only 30 km south from Esbjerg.  Ribe is famous as a central point from which to explore Viking folklore and history, and in addition to its Viking museum, hosts a summer Viking market and village scene (including tradesmen, artists, huntsmen and warriors’ battles) at the authentic Viking Centre which lies on the outskirts of the town.

Waiting on the quayside to board the ferry back to the UK I started to panic when I noticed all vehicles with trailers were reversing onto the ferry! I’m not too bad at reversing, but not with the world and his wife watching! I was almost the last unit to board with a very confined to reverse into. Fortunately, one of the shunt drivers took pity on me and without any effort at all reversed our unit straight into a very tiny space. The journey home from Harwich was straightforward – quite an ante-climax really!

  
This was just one of our journeys we were lucky to make this year. We have family in California, USA where we spent April. We worked as Couriers managing 12 mobile homes in the Vendee, France for three months, and now we are off to Spain for Christmas through to March. Pity we have to wait to retire to do all the good things!

  
Points to note:

Everything is expensive, so stop converting krone back to sterling.

The Commodore cabin was well worth the expense.

Sweden is a vast country, so you need more than the conventional “two weeks” holiday.

The climate is not particularly kind, September is reputed to be the best month for warmth.

Check the service available on your mobile phone.